Caring for Cashmere and Wool
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Wash cashmere every 3 to 4 wears in cool water with a gentle detergent, or have it dry cleaned. Never wring it, never hang it wet, and never put it in a dryer. Heat and agitation felt the fibres together permanently. Dry flat, reshape while damp, and store folded rather than on a hanger.
Cashmere is more durable than its reputation suggests. Nearly all the damage people attribute to fragile fibre is actually caused by heat, agitation, or weight — and all three are avoidable.
What actually destroys wool and cashmere
One process: felting. Wool fibres are covered in microscopic scales. Heat and agitation make those scales open and lock into each other, and the fabric shrinks and thickens permanently. There is no reversing it.
Felting needs three things together — heat, moisture, and movement. Remove any one and the fibre is safe. That single fact explains every rule below.
| Do | Why |
|---|---|
| Cool water, same temperature for wash and rinse | Temperature change alone can shock the fibre into felting |
| Press gently, never rub or wring | Agitation is the trigger; twisting also stretches the knit |
| Dry flat on a towel | A wet sweater on a hanger stretches under its own weight |
| Store folded | Hangers create permanent shoulder points |
| Clean before storing | Moths are attracted to body oil and food residue, not wool |
Washing cashmere at home
If you want to do it yourself, the method matters more than the product:
- Fill a basin with cool water and a small amount of wool-specific detergent. Regular detergent contains enzymes that break down protein fibres — and wool and cashmere are protein.
- Submerge and press gently for a few minutes. No rubbing, no swirling.
- Rinse in water at the same temperature. This is the step people skip, and it is the one that causes the most damage.
- Press the water out between two towels. Never wring. Roll the sweater in a towel and press down.
- Dry flat, reshaped while damp. Lay it on a dry towel and gently push it back into its original dimensions. It will hold that shape as it dries.
Expect it to take a full day to dry. Rushing this with heat undoes everything you just did carefully.
Pilling is not a defect
Pills form where fabric rubs against itself or against a bag strap. Shorter fibres in the yarn work loose and tangle into balls.
Good cashmere pills too. What distinguishes quality is that it mostly stops after the first several wears, once the loose short fibres have worked out. Very short-staple cashmere keeps pilling indefinitely.
Use a cashmere comb or a sweater stone, laying the garment flat and working in one direction. Avoid disposable fabric shavers on fine knits — they cut into the yarn and thin the fabric.
Storage is where sweaters actually die
More cashmere is lost in summer storage than in wear:
- Clean it first, always. Moths target body oils, perspiration, and food traces. A clean sweater is nearly uninteresting to them.
- Fold, never hang. Knits stretch under their own weight and shoulder distortion does not come out.
- Breathable storage. Cotton bags or acid-free boxes. Sealed plastic traps moisture against the fibre and can encourage mildew.
- Cedar over mothballs. Cedar works by repelling rather than killing, needs resurfacing with sandpaper each season, and does not leave your clothes smelling of naphthalene.
When to bring it to us
Hand washing is genuinely fine for routine care. Bring a garment in when:
- there is a stain, particularly oil-based
- the knit is structured, beaded, or has a lining
- it is going into storage and you want it properly clean first
- something has already gone wrong and you want it assessed before it sets
- it is a piece you simply do not want to risk
We handle knits by hand, dry them flat, and reshape them to their original measurements — the same steps described above, with the difference that we do it for a living. Our dry cleaning service uses eco-friendly solvents that are gentler on protein fibres than traditional perchloroethylene.
Call (914) 965-0734 if you have a piece you are unsure about. We will tell you when something is fine to wash at home.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you wash cashmere at home?
Yes, carefully. Use cool water and a detergent made for wool, submerge and press gently rather than rubbing, rinse in water the same temperature, then press the water out between towels. The two rules that matter most are no temperature change between wash and rinse, and no wringing. Both cause felting.
Why does my cashmere pill, and does it mean it is low quality?
Pilling is normal and happens on good cashmere too. It comes from shorter fibres working loose under friction, which is why it appears first under the arms and where a bag strap sits. A cashmere comb removes pills without damaging the knit. Pilling that stops after the first few wears usually indicates good quality; pilling that never stops indicates short fibres.
How do I get moth holes out of a wool sweater?
Small holes can be rewoven or invisibly mended by a tailor, which works best on tight knits and solid colours. What matters more is stopping the cause: moths are drawn to body oils and food residue, not to clean wool. Clean garments before storing them and moths lose interest.
Should cashmere be dry cleaned or hand washed?
Both work when done properly. Hand washing is gentler on the fibre and better for regular care. Dry cleaning is the safer choice for structured knits, anything with a stain, pieces you cannot risk, and garments going into seasonal storage where you want them fully clean first.
How often should cashmere be cleaned?
Every 3 to 4 wears for something worn against the skin, less for a layer worn over a shirt. Cashmere is naturally odour-resistant and airing between wears does most of the work. Over-washing is the more common mistake and it shortens the garment's life more than under-washing does.